Open, Open, Open

While impatiently awaiting the Barney's Warehouse Sale doors to open (or any sale doors for that matter) my mind reflects back on that commercial where a women is peering through the plane glass of a store chanting the words above.


I have been so distracted with my day job and child that I have been somewhat catatonic with thoughts colliding into each other inside my head. But I wouldn't be me without a good deal of those thoughts being related to my appearance and next purchase. With my blog thought and personal needs at issue I have been pondering what is a building block item that I need? What would be most versatile and what would get the most wear? For me the big 3 are pants, shirts, and sweaters. But this time around, Sweaters seem to stick in my mind.

So, what kind of sweater...heavy, light, cotton, wool, blend, zips, buttons, v neck, crew, cardigan...oh my?! All sections of the country have their own micro-climate and one should choose accordingly. Style must always be a consideration but that’s where I find the general knitwear scene to be lacking.

Personally speaking, I believe sweaters have not been up to par over the past 10 years. Coogi became crass, Missioni became common place, and for a while no one had really stepped up to carry the banner. IMHO the current sweaters are Italian or British or Scottish. Names that come to mind are Avon Celli, Borrelli, Brunello Cucinelli, Malo, Loro Piana, Bamford, and Pringle.

What Would Bond Wear?

You know...Bond...James Bond.  I don't know how many of you have viewed my profile but if you do, you will see that I like almost all things "Bond."  I genuinely love the clothing Bond wears in his movies.  This new Bond is outfitted in smart and sharp ensembles that fit both his physique and his various sorroundings.  I also like the way he is not dusted off and re-clothed in each scene.  He is more like the rest of us who have to fight and dine in the same outfit.  Often times, I find that I ask myself, "What would Bond wear?" on a particular occassion.  Being that it is Summer, I was able to take tips from his last movie, "Quantum of Solace."  Particularly, his attire in this movie allowed me to lose my fear of wearing black or dark colors in the heat of the Summer.  I also, learned that one can couple a cableknit with light tee shirt between Memorial and Labor Days. 

Of particular note, with the new Bond is his use of simple but elegant clothing pieces which should form a basis for anyone's wardrobe.  The Polo, The Tee, and Cableknit Cardigan are indespensible items that if kept plain and simple can be interchanged to create numerous combinations. 

My suggestions are: Sunspel polos and tees, and "pick your own" label cardigan.  Ralph Lauren, Vince, Bennetton, and Brooks Brothers make nice shawl collared cardigans and are good starts.
http://www.sunspel.com/mens/polo-shirts
http://www.ralphlauren.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2727509

But if you don't know where to begin, go here: http://www.jamesbondlifestyle.com/

Staying in the Hunt

 
   In the heat of the summer, many are asking themselves the question “what do I wear in this heat?”  Simplistically, the heat should dictate that less is more and therefore this wondering becomes somewhat of a situational oxymoron.  But, hey, don’t sweat it; I’ve got you covered.  

What do people who live in some of the hottest and most intense tropical climates wear?  They wear Safari Jackets, hats and weightless coverings to keep themselves cool and comfortable.  Without dating myself, I remember Mill Valley excursions with my dad and a special store that had a curious feel like it could have been in Disneyland. Still guessing?  It was the early days of Banana Republic and Safari gear was the mainstay.  Today, we see many mutations of the traditional Safari Jacket.  Here are a few variations, but the most traditional Safari Jacket will have a belt and vented back slits to facilitate the flow of air and release of body heat. 

Summer White

White pants are being used as a primary color block this summer.  In her recent movie, Anna Wintour demanded that she see primary colors in the color block series of photos for her "September Issue."  White has been used as a separation between other bright primary colors but this summer "White" is a major player.  The Sartorialist recently ran a series of pictures on this very idea.

The pant is the main source of the white color block but if you are a real fashionista you might have a totally awesome double breasted jacket to give your outfit its proper splash of white.

White is a color, which can work to clean the palette; similar to the effect coffee has on the olfactory senses when sampling fragrances.  White can be the socks that set off the green Tods loafers.  White can be the tee shirt that sets off the blue Chambray shirt or red unconstructed Brioni Sportcoat.

Visit these sites to see items:

http://www.tods.com/

http://www.ehaberdasher.com/servlet/StoreFront

Barney's Warehouse Sale

Is hereby confirmed:

These Boots Are Made For Walking

The Suede boot...who woulda thunk?  This mod throwback is enjoying a resurgence like no other footwear right now.  Many makers/designers are entering the fray with their own signature version of this dashing dandy.  As I was pursuing the internet for photos to share, I found it curious that many of the designers were focusing on the remakes of the desert boot style while there were few replicas of my personal favorite, the suede Chelsea or Jodhpur.  Personally, I have a pair of rubber soled brown suede Ferragamos from 2003. My boots have a square toe rather than the rounded toe pictured below. 

Shirting the Issue of a Good Stiff One

Sorry for my little tirade last post but my periods between retail therapy sessions have become longer, with the eventual session being weak at best.
But, back to the issue at hand...I want a shirt and not any shirt will do.  I have always been partial to the high rise stiffness of a substantial collar.

And, when I say "shirt," I envision a statement of collar superiortity that would demand a substantial tie be worn as complement, or could turn heads if left unadorned.  I could never clearly verbalize my intent or vision of the perfect collar until Tom Ford personified my thoughts by coming from behind the camera to the forefront.

Tom Ford's image, gave me the look that I wanted and still use as the standard upon which all my shirting selections are judged.  However, the issue for me still remains that I must obtain the biggest bang for my  meager bucks.  I desire to have the best shirt I can purchase at the best price point, before the "uh oh I splurged too much" cutoff.  So, after looking and wearing and washing and fabric selections and custom or no custom and working out (yes I do work out to fit an item) and changing sizes, I have come to a neat little number that does me just right.  Piatelli Shirts found at Barney's New York.

These shirts are trim on my body giving me the room to move without restricting my arms or chest area and they also tuck nicely into my trousers without that Trad Shirt blousing effect.  Lastly, they have what I call "neck appeal."  The look of the collar is prominent.  The collar will not shirk away from a jacket or swearter and will be the perfect receptor to a high end 7-fold tie.  This collar speaks to me.

There is simply no substitute for a good stiff one!

What I Don't Like

I have been somewhat challenged as it pertains to my disposable clothing allowance. It has almost been nonexistent to say the least but today I took a walk to find a really nice white shirt for cheap…that's when I got mad. Without naming names, I perused the wares of a couple of stores known for their drastically reduced, second hand and almost second hand offerings. They consistently advertise $1100.00 dresses for $375.00 and $2300.00 suits for $800.00 but they were nowhere to be found. As a matter of fact they had lesser items for higher prices. The shirts they had on hand were well over a hundred dollars. The tattered and shop worn trousers they offered couldn’t beat Neiman’s last call.

What I don't like, are discount houses trying to sell second hand or distressed merchandise for last markdown, or HIGHER prices, simply because they have a coerced market. People flock to these places mesmerized by the Brioni, DG, and Prada labels and come to believe via some brainwashing of ignorance, that they are getting the lowest price on good designer products. Au contraire, mon amie, there are bargains to be had but not here. I admit to being a label jockey but not without the vast amount of research and price conscience acumen that precedes the final act of handing over the moolah.

Don’t get me wrong…yes I am mad because I didn’t make a purchase…yes I am mad because their selection had little in the way of white…yes I am mad that Gilt just had the same ETON shirts on sale at $99.00 and these cheese whizzers were hawking them out for $129.00…yes I am mad because they had a long line of people still purchasing at these ridiculous prices and lastly I am mad because I know there is a place where Borrellis, Brionis, Zegnas, Charvets, Truzzis, Barbas, and Finamores can be purchased in the $70.00 to $110.00 range…and I haven’t found it yet!

Wardrobe Stapels

Regardless of how many Suits, Jackets, Pants, Shirts, Shoes I accumulate, I always find myself in the hunt for a basic clothing item upon which to mix, match and accessorize Ad infinitum.  Blue Blazers are just that sort of staple that provide the wearer with an infinite well of imaginative juices to flow in both dress and casual directions.  I recently missed two instances to snag the "to die for" Blazer, one from eHaberdasher and the other from eBay.  Both were blue, of course, and had the essential gilt buttons and peaked lapels.  One was made by Brioni and the other by Brooks Brothers.  Blue Blazers have been a mainstay of the English influence and that influence has been prevalent in my wardrobe for quite some time.  Please give some thought to the traditional or some of the newer takes on this must have staple for your wardrobe.

Gamble on a New Razor

Close, Closer, Closest.
Gillett has further refined and replaned its money making Fusion 5 blade system to introduce the "Fusion ProGlide." By adding an oil slick strip and thinning the razors, Proctor and his buddy Gamble have retooled their new found acquisition's prime product to introduce what is the smoothest shave I can imagine.



They have come a long way from their humble safety razor beginnings but major developments kept happening and shaving has never looked back. Safety went out the window, Mach 3 sped things up and Fusion threw us into a "Matrix" like dimension. Competitors cannot keep up and have embraced the old to compete with the new. If you look closely and survey the situation, you will see re-tooled safety razors and throw back barber supplies being marketed with gold, platinum and ebony handles. For me, the old stuff is grand but I just don't have that kind of time in the morning. Anything that can knock down the growth without making me look like I was in a brawl, is the regime I can live with.

So, get up get out and get involved...it's your beard and your face!

Barney's Warehouse Sale

I have a reliable inside source that has winked to me that the Warehouse Sale will happen in August for San Francisco. I had to get this news out to all who have been saving their pennies for something GREAT to come along.

Layer Right..Start Tight

Please forgive me for jumping around with my focus. I resumed my posting ways by adopting the idea that I would start at the body and work my way outward. Let's just say this post focuses closer to the body than not.

Undershirts, briefs, boxers, which ones do you wear? Yes, you should wear underwear always, IMHO. Personally, I like to sense that my clothing looks like it feels and feels like it looks. So, starting with loose, clumsy, underwear sets the stage for a very uncomfortable and disheveled appearance. As goes my appearance, so goes my day.
There is a currently running Hanes commercial that pokes fun at a gent’s loosely fitting t-shirt collar. I would go a few steps further with wondering if the undershirt is too long, too short, bunches at the waist, do the briefs bind or boxers ride up, do they make impressions on the lay of the pant? All are important issues for feeling and thereby looking your best.
For me, I lean toward a V neck shirt and trunk with "push up" effect offered by Ermenegildo Zegna. I like the way the material and make fits snugly to my body and stays where its put. The underwear never fights with my extra slim fit shirt or my low waisted 9.25 inch rise trousers. There are many makers leaning toward this fit; Armani, Versace and Hanro to name a few. Just take this as a suggestion...kinda like I suggest you pull the ripcord to your parachute! Ciao.

A Suitable Loafer

I recently made a comment on "the Sartorialist" expressing the notion, that I find it against my sensibilities to go sock-less in a lace up Oxford or Cap Toe shoe and I feel only a loafer should be pressed into service on such an occasion.
That comment spurned me on to search for what I thought was the most elegant but adaptable loafer that could carry itself nobly if its wearer were to go bare. I made the usual rounds, viewing the perennial staples from Gucci, Tods, and Ferragamo but nothing stood out or had a muted elegance; which was my mental picture...well, not until I stopped by a fellow blogger's site I follow, “A Suitable Wardrobe” and peeked at his new shopping site






There they were, just as I pictured them.
"http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/"

Not so Common Scents

Time to get back to the body focus. With Summer upon us, and layers being peeled away, we need to enhance the attractiveness and allure of our last and primary layer...skin.



Summer scents are advertised as being "clean" or "fresh" but rarely ever deliver. I find they maintain a citrus or soapy undertone and lack any real come hither effect. But, dash that thought as Acqua di Parma Meditediterraneo line has got it right, namely with their Bergamotto entry. This number is fresh, light and oh so sexy. Do yourself a favor and sample some today...there is only so much Summer left.

Papa's Gotta GET a Brand New Bag

I pulled out my summer "go to work" bag I bought a few summers ago. It is a decent J. Crew model with conservative green and blue horizontal bands and leather finished handles. It is of the heavy canvas variety and zips across the top. I like it and enjoy carrying it but the new wave seems to be the "waxed cloth" look.

Makers/Brands of this old but new craze are Filson, Barbour, J Crew, Oughton, L.L. Bean and many others. I really need to upgrade to this lighter and versatile fabric that has been around for decades. Here are a few good looks: